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September, 2010

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FrontRangeLiving.com -> Cooking

BRINGING IN THE AUTUMN HARVEST: BERRY PATCH FARM--One sunny day in early fall, I set off for the Berry Patch Farm in Brighton. It is one of those unbelievably perfect days we are blessed with during autumn in Colorado – a flawless blue sky, and sunshine that infuses the very air with a golden glow. Despite the high temperature, there is a marked lack of humidity that hints of the cooler days ahead.

BEYOND THE FOAM: MICROBREWS COME OF AGE: Beer has traditionally been linked to football, fried foods and grill menus. But across the Front Range gourmets have begun to pair beer with high-end cheeses, chocolates, and fine dining menus. Beer dinners and tastings share table space with wine as microbrews expand the palates of experienced foodies. This new image for the sudsy brew can be seen in fine dining restaurants across the Front Range that have opened with or added extensive menus of beer for diners eager to enlarge their beer repertoire.

SUMMER SOUFFLÉS -- For light summer fare, soufflés spin their golden web around most crops in season: asparagus, chard, spinach, zucchini or eggplant. A spoonful of ratatouille folded into a soufflé transforms whipped egg whites into a sophisticated main dish. And, a soufflé is far faster and easier to make than you may believe.

HOME ON THE RANGE -- (KIOWA) Rancher Marlene Groves navigates her small pickup along a bluff overlooking a bison herd. One cow has set herself apart to give birth, the wet calf crumpled on the ground, umbilical cord clinging to the mother.  Marlene points to a shadowy lurking figure, hunched low—a coyote so gray he blends into the dormant, drought-stricken grasses. The cow begins to nudge the calf with her hoof, a gentle but insistent prod and the calf responds. He rises on shaky legs.

WHEN THE CENTERPIECE LEAPS TO THE PLATE -- On the roster of edible flowers, daylilies are practically unknown as a food source in the United States. Although most collectors cringe at the thought of chomping on coveted blooms, common daylilies have been everyday fare for centuries in other cultures. August and September is the time to divide and transplant them for next spring.

PORT WINE -- Vintage port with Stilton cheese, pears and walnuts—try it on a cold winter night in front of the fireplace. Also, port and anything chocolate applies to a ruby version only. Other full-flavored cheeses (Cheddar, Gouda, Brie) work well with ruby styles. Tawny styles are best with nuts and nut-based desserts (pecan pie, fruitcake, hazelnut torte), non-blue cheeses (Manchego, smoked Gouda, Gruyere), fruit-based tarts (apple pie), and burnt sugar preparations (crème brûlée, crème caramel).

TROUT: A COLORADO FISH STORY -- One of summer’s greatest pleasures is sitting around a campfire roasting a freshly caught trout after a day of fishing. It might be a rainbow, brook, or brown pulled from a high altitude icy lake or snagged in a rushing river. Tourists who flock to Colorado will consider the experience to be part of their vacation package of majestic vistas, wildlife and alpine tundra. What they don’t know is that they are not feasting on a Colorado fish. The deception has been going on for a long time, but that doesn’t mean a rainbow isn’t central to a genuine Colorado feast--one that will be rare this season because of the drought.

QUINOA -- a pseudo grain rapidly gaining popularity in the United States, requires cool nights and warm days below 90 degrees to set seed. Although the high San Luis Valley of Colorado is one of the few areas in North America that can support quinoa, the end result was far different from the original seed that was introduced. Secrets to cooking this nutrient-rich food.

THE ART OF MAKING FLOUR -- Modern day wheat miller, Len Wunderly, reaches into the innards of machinery to pull out a handful of flour. He scrapes the speckled powder between his palms, spreading it finely from the tips of his fingers down towards the thumb, searching for flaws in the process both by sight and feel. Like fine wine making, flour milling must be tested and tinkered with finesse. But unlike the wine master who relies on taste and smell to test the fermenting process, the miller employs his hands.

ON THE TRAIL OF ANCIENT BEANS -- When archaeologists discovered dried beans stored in a pottery bowl dating to thousands of years in an Anasazi dig, it clinched their theory. Beans were a staple in the diet of those ancient people. "I’ve seen those small brown beans," says agricultural extension agent Dan Fernandez, of Dolores County in the Four Corners area of Colorado, "and while they wouldn’t have viability to germinate now, they’re an example of why beans grow so well around here today." Ancient beans are still alive in Dove Creek.

CHAMPAGNE: A TOAST TO THE FUTURE FROM AN ILLUSTRIOUS PAST -- "I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad," said Madame Bollinger, one of the grandes dames of Champagne. "Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."

WINTER SALADS -- Lyons farmer Lyle Davis sits in his kitchen facing the fields outside. Rows and rows of slumbering peonies look like upended brush bristles, the stalks cut to the ground. They’ll wake by May, when seventeen acres of flowers and vegetable plants return to full production. On a bright, not too cold Colorado day, you can almost hear the lettuce growing—the tiny sword-shaped leaves standing at attention. But it’s only the imagination at work. Winter is locked in and the leaves of foxglove and sweet William lie hunched, hugging the earth.

WINTER SQUASH YEARNS FOR A COMEBACK -- Once regarded as a staple in root cellars, kitchens and dinner tables across the country, winter squash has slowly waned in popularity over several decades. We’ve embraced fast food, trendier vegetables, and those that are seemingly easier to prepare. However, as the sustainable agriculture movement grows, so does the demand for locally grown produce. Savvy purveyors are starting to incorporate more foods typical of the American frontier where squash once played a major role.

GARLIC GOES GOURMET -- America’s addiction to garlic increased dramatically with the advent of California’s Gilroy Garlic Festival in 1979. The annual event spawned garlic shops, garlic restaurants, garlic publications, garlic festivals and dozens of garlic contests across the country. Garlic's appeal is widespread and deeply rooted. But, as any knowledgeable garlic expert will tell you, fans who confine their indulgence to the commercial fare available in grocery stores have circumvented the true pleasures of garlic nirvana.

THE ROASTING OF THE GREEN -- A haze of smoke hangs in the air in southern Colorado after the harvest. On street corners and in parking lots the pop of the gas torch signals the season of roasting. Vendors twirl wire baskets to sear the thin skins of Anaheim or Pueblo green chiles. Men wearing cowboy hats and boots stride to their trucks laden with boxes of the roasted chiles that will be frozen for winter stews and sauces. 

AN AUTUMN WINDFALL OF APPLES, PEARS AND SOUR CHERRIES -- The word windfall is associated with sudden, unexpected bounty--the image of ripe fruit blown from trees. Windfall is the perfect word for autumn when there’s a chill at night. Apples, pears and sour cherries show up in the farmers markets as if a cool gust has blown them in from the Western Slope.

HUNTING THE WILD MUSHROOM -- Wild mushrooms may be the jewels of the forest, but with shitake, oyster, woodear and portabello mushrooms in the stores, it’s hard to judge the difference between a wild and cultivated mushroom. Here's the definition: wild mushrooms must be collected from the forest and cannot be cultivated on a mushroom farm. The exquisite, tender chanterelles or the robust, meaty boletus rarely are found fresh in stores. They're discovered in the mountains of Colorado.

HARNESSING THE SUN -- The road east to Wiggins, Colorado, is straight and narrow--slicing through wheat, corn and sunflower fields. Surely this isn't tomato and sweet pepper territory. Or is it? Russell and Cindy Shoemaker are growing spectacular vine-ripened tomatoes and pulpy giant sweet peppers in greenhouses. The brilliance of the Colorado sun makes it all possible, they say. Chef Antonio Laudisio comments on cooking with tomatoes and sweet peppers.

CORN IS KING in the summer. Even confirmed vegetable haters will drool over fresh sweet corn slathered with butter, salt and pepper. It's a beloved seasonal past time—what truffles are to the French and mussels to the Belgians. We'll visit the Western Slope, which is home to Olathe Sweet corn. Aspen chef Charles Dale from the Renaissance and Rustique restaurants shares his Maine lobster corn chowder recipe with us.

SUMMER WINES -- Indulge yourself with the fruits of summer—peaches, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, cherries and blackberries. Freshly picked, these exude the essence of summer: juice-dripping, pit-spitting and finger-staining. Adorn a shortcake, panna cotta, meringue, or ice cream with these luscious jewels and then accentuate them with an appropriate dessert or fruit wine and perhaps a liqueur.

SWEET CHERRIES AND APRICOTS -- As a prelude to Western Slope peaches, sweet cherries and apricots open the season for fruit desserts. David and Mary Morton from Morton's Orchards in Palisade are two you'll meet in the farmers markets. Their organic cherries are picked at the peak of ripeness when fruit is sweetest. Recipes include sweet cherries in whipped cream with chocolate shavings. Then try a rustic cherry and apricot pie.

THE OVERLOOKED SPRING VEGETABLES -- We're in a gardening lull when it comes to vegetables. Chard and spinach, scallions, peas, broccoli and lettuce will make way soon for corn, tomatoes, peppers and squash. But before we overlook this spring bounty, let's celebrate a forgotten beauty, the humble beet.

ASPARAGUS -- Brighton farmer Steve Brancucci watched with horror as a blizzard struck his farm in April. His asparagus plants were sprouting and ready to be picked. Despite the occasional blizzard, asparagus can be a plentiful  crop in Colorado. Our cool spring weather allows Brancucci to harvest from  April through the middle of June. Chef John Duran from Full Moon Grill describes his favorite way to cook this versatile vegetable. And we'll share recipes for a spicy sesame asparagus, a warm pasta salad, asparagus soup and a main dish butternut squash with asparagus and pasta.

THE BIG REDS -- Whether it’s a hearty stew that has been simmering for hours or a quick steak on the grill, it’s always fun to have an excuse to open a big red. Big food and big red wines are a winning combination. Already eaten? Enjoy a hearty red with some robust cheeses in front of the fireplace. Too hot to cook? Summer barbeque season is a perfect time to augment that mellow Chardonnay with a monster red.

THE PLIGHT OF THE HONEYBEE -- The world's busiest creature is essential for pollinating our flowering and fruiting crops. That's why beekeeper Tom Theobald is alarmed that their numbers are declining in Colorado and elsewhere.

HONEY isn't just a substitute for sugar. It's a delicacy in its own right. Honey caramelized peppery walnuts spice up a winter greens salad with blue cheese. Combine honey and brown sugar to caramelize salmon, or honey and lemon for Cornish hens. Classic honey butters complete the recipes for roasted carrots, sweet potatoes and onions.

THE ART OF TEA -- Whether it's in Japanese, English or Tajik, it's good for you. We'll take you to three tea emporiums in Colorado: the Japanese tea house of the Denver Botanic Gardens, the Brown Palace and the Dushanbe tea house from Tajikistan. Take in an interview with a tea importer and enjoy our recipes for tea and scones. Or, discover a roster of popular herbs for tea.

SAKÉ REVEALED -- You may love Japanese food, but ordering saké looks impossible. It's nothing like other wines. Where do you start? Our master sommelier will help you understand how saké is made and where this ancient beverage originated. She'll also give you clues to ordering saké with your next plate of sushi.

JUDGMENT DAY -- Ever wonder how wines are judged? Master sommelier Sally Mohr takes you behind the scenes at a recent judging. For 48 hours, restaurateurs, wine writers and retailers dive into wines from around the world. Disagreements abound and conflicts may be heated. Eventually they leave with stained teeth and sensory overload. But great wines have received their due.

EVERYTHING'S COMING UP ROSÉ -- What's the best wine to serve with your home grown vegetables? Why a pink rosé, of course. Our wine columnist tells you how they are made and where they come from.


 
 

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